Dmm brass offsets vs peanuts reddit. That being said, as you can see from the numbers, i'm a big fan of the totem cams. 1) for $200 or I can pick up some Z4 offsets (0. DMM offsets are great nuts but there's only 5 of them, so if you buy a set of regular nuts (DMM wallnuts are again awesome, but most brands of nuts Additionally they will match the DMM offsets which everyone also swears by (BD now makes offset nuts, never tried em tho). The DMM HB Brass Offset (also known as simply DMM Brass Offsets) is the most popular “ brassy ” or micro nut on the market, and Totems & Dragons for the secondary part of my rack, with the cutover probably at one of each red. The DMM Alloy Offset nuts are the latest iteration of the original HB offset nut. they offer the offsets in brass for the small stuff and alloy for the large stuff. for when the shit really hits the fan, I have the smallest 4 or so BD Micro nutsand for aid climbing, I have DMM offset brass. 9/10 it will make absolutely no difference. The alloy offsets are very versatile due to the cut outs on the sides. Their large surface area helps dissipate forces, making them suitable for protecting fragile rock. Standard rack 1 set of Rocks 1 set of Wallnuts 3 Dmm alloy Offsets 1 set of micro alloy wires (dmm or Wild country or BD) 1 set of brass micro wires Some climbers also add extra sizes that are commonly used (say an extra Wallnut 7), and some rock types and pitch lengths may lend themselves to carrying a third set of nuts. I rarely ever bring offset cams, but DMM alloy and brass offsets are frequently on the rack for granite. Buy now at Bananafingers and enjoy free shipping on purchases over £60. Very similar but better in every respect with the Where I climb in the Sierra I rarely take my normal nuts as my offsets are that much better. Took me 10 minutes of hammering at it with my nut tool and grigri to get it out Enhance your gear with DMM Brass Offsets to handle every trad climbing adventure. The Offsets stay on my rack pretty much permanently and but the others are only used on rare occasions, including when climbing on slate. Small but mighty. While by no means an expert, I prefer the DMM Peanuts in the smaller offset nut sizes and the newly released WC Superlight Offsets for the larger. Unless a book calls for extra, my default is to rack a single set of DMM Offset and Peanuts, maybe an extra offset in the every other size (7, 9, 11) if the pitches are 50m or longer. I would go for DMM Peanuts for the smaller sizes and DMM Alloys for the larger. The brass used for the head of the nut is soft enough to bite into placements, but hard enough to resist deforming and pulling through. Brass Offsets are crucial for protecting small flared cracks, often fitting perfectly where nothing else will go. 1/0. I have been using X4 micro and offset camalots for a long time and I really like them. g slate) and a set of peanuts for regular routes. 3) for $150. When only marginal, narrow placements are available, having the DMM Brass Offsets to hand can make all the difference. But no one explains in detail exactly why they are better than the standard non-offset nuts I have (DMM wallnuts, like op). I've got sets of all 3 - Peanuts, Micro Wallnuts and HB Offsets. Now I just wonder if someone is using them already? And how are they compared to X4 and especialy to DMM Dragonflies. The brass offsets have a slightly larger angle of taper which, for me, doesn't seem to find as many placements. I find that I use some of each on most climbs and I don't mind carrying the extra stoppers (they are pretty light compared to cams) so I carry both. I have a mix of totems and aliens for my finger size pieces, it's pretty great. What happened is you used them. the dmm offsets are actually two different sets and cover the range from tiny up to med-large. 2/0. I have about 8-9 shoulder length slings with wire gates as quickdraws, I haven't used a normal quickdraw outside of sport climbing for years. I have several other options In reply to TheHurting: I've got Peenuts 3,4 and 5 on my rack alongside my normal DMM wires and find them really useful. Peanuts bite really well and the angle of taper seems to suit rhyolite cracks. DMM Alloy & Brass Offsets, Peanuts 20% OFF Follow topic: Email Notify on site Post Reply Page 1 of 1 The DMM HB Brass Offset nuts work excellently in pin scars and small flared cracks, where the double taper resists rotating or rocking. They are both the same price, but you get one extra piece with the Superlight Offset Rocks. 77 fall. Wires are soldered directly into the nut head, allow Brass Offsets are crucial for protecting small flared cracks, often fitting perfectly where nothing else will go. I've read lots of posts of people raving about the Alloy Offsets, but very little user information about Superlight Offset Rocks. So, do Peanuts fail often enough to make the extra strength of the brass offsets of greater importance than simply for extra peace of mind ? Also, is there any difference in the likelihood of ripping ? I should have thought that similar sized and shapes wires made of different materials *could* have different characteristics in this regard. In my experience, offsets fit in every placement that a regular but fits, but the same isn’t true of the reverse. The top placement usually feels about 50% higher force than the climber, which is limited to roughly 8kn by the rope in a huge factor 1. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. With 3 options that make the perfect starting point to building the dream comprehensive rack, the Dmm protection packs contain different nut variants all that suit a particular purpose or need. I would recommend carrying both sets in the meantime, until you are In an ideal world I'd probably have lots of RPs/IMPs and brass offsets in the 1-3 size range for special occasions (e. The richer people also buy a set of DMM offsets, which are very sexy bits of gear, and a brilliant addition to a rack. The tapered design Small but mighty. You get to double up on the middle sizes, they’re not as aggressively offset so they still work well in normal placements, and they’re significantly lighter. These micro wires can provide unexpected holding power. They're still totally bomber and will become increasingly chewed up -but still bomber- as you use them. DMM Brass Offsets, Alloy Offsets & Wallnuts The DMM brass offsets are rated from anywhere between 2kn and 10kn. The For smaller ones I was going to go for DMM brass offsets but went for the Black Diamond offset micro stoppers which are a good shape and I think are slightly stronger size for In an ideal world I'd probably have lots of RPs/IMPs and brass offsets in the 1-3 size range for special occasions (e. I found, since i got the DMM brass offsets, that most small placements have a constriction where you can place a nut or a offset. The overwhelming consensus recommendation always seems to be for these DMM alloy offsets. However I got rid of sizes 1 & 2 and I also have a full Lots of people rave about the brass offsets which essentially do the same thing and say that they are much better and fit more placements. Not sure how small is micro to you but in my experience, if you put a smaller cam on your rack you will definitely place it, and it doesn’t weigh much. The colour coded swage Id go with either WC or DMM. Is it because the shape gives you more options depending on the side you place against the crack? Why We Like The DMM HB Brass Offset Set As we go up in grade, the placements get fewer, so we add the DMM HB Brass Offset Micro protection for small offset cracks Peenuts have the same asymmetrical taper as Alloy Offsets, allowing them to protect flared and irregular shaped cracks more effectively than symmetrical nuts. DMM offsets are popular, though I prefer a the Wild Country Superlight Offset Rocks paired with the Superlight half nuts (non-offset) sets. Agree completely. I'm specifically climbing Squamish granite but any opinions on these cams would be much appreciated! Small but mighty. If it helps I carry a set of DMM Wallnuts (similar to you bd stoppers) and a set of DMM alloy offsets and plan to add a set of peanuts to this. Like all DMM gear they have a high breaking strength, sometimes twice to that of the competition. In an ideal world I'd probably have lots of RPs/IMPs and brass offsets in the 1-3 size range for special occasions (e. Wires are soldered directly into the nut head, allow Love the DMM HB offsets. I find the hexes and offsets tend to have the strongest placements and get placed more often but I definely still use the nuts a lot. But its arguable that the peanuts are I would keep both, the offsets are great but you can't beat a 'standard' nut like your bd ones in more parallel cracks. com/cartgenie/prodInfo. Unfortunately when HB went bust, Offsets, which have a He has the 1-11 DMM Wallnuts which I really enjoy and was considering buying. Wires are soldered directly into the nut head, allow Lots of people rave about the brass offsets which essentially do the same thing and say that they are much better and fit more placements. Dmm wallnuts. Of course your mileage may vary. . In reality buy whichever you like. I would appreciate hearing personal Small but mighty. After buying dmm alloys and peanuts, I stopped carrying the regular set and have never looked back. For free climbing, the DMM Peanuts are awesome. asp?pid=34&cid=6 DMM offset nuts and the biggest offset brass. Setting up the perfect rack? Dmm has made it much, much easier with the protection packs. In my opinion Small but mighty. But its arguable that the peanuts are more durable (they withstand being stripped from placements aggressively a bit better), if a little weaker in the smallest size. This allows a thicker wire to DMM brass offsets or IMP (copy of RP) have a higher rating than BD micros in the equivalent size FWIW. It could be quite likely that your gear will hit more than 5kn in a 20 foot fall, depending on many variables. Shop for climbing micro nuts Daily Deal. All my nuts are DMM (walnuts+offsets) but I can't say I have noticed a difference when leading on my partners set of BD nuts. If the price difference doesn't bother you, go for the brass. They are light and very resistance to tough conditions. Wires are soldered directly into the nut head, allow I'm looking to get either DMM Dragonfly (0. 2 and 0. Wires are soldered directly into the nut head, allow Has anyone tried both the DMM Alloy Offsets and the Wild Country Superlight Offset Rocks? I'm wondering how they compare. Lots of people rave about the brass offsets which essentially do the same thing and say that they are much better and fit more placements. For nuts I just use Dmm offsets and rp's, but a single set of Dmm offsets is more than enough for mostly anything in Squamish. I generally prefer the brass ones to the Peenuts. Alloy Offsets protect irregular and flared cracks that regular nuts cannot. Seconded. They are slightly The dmm alloy offsets will definitely joining my rack but can anyone shed any light on the benefits of peenuts vs the dmm brass offsets? Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Shop Brass Offsets Vs Peanuts DMM Wallnuts Sets For Sale, Reviews, Deals And Guides Dmm Wallnuts - Grey 7 Ft Wires soldered directly into heads for strength The wires of IMPS and Brass Offsets are soldered directly into their heads. By George North - It wouldn't be right to start a review of the DMM Offsets without mentioning how they came into existence. I don't even carry standard nuts because they fit in so many more places better. Wires are soldered directly into the nut head, allow > I'd wait for the DMM/HB brass offsets. product description for dmm brass offsetshttp://store. Wires are soldered directly into the nut head, allow Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. I've found offsets to a significant degree but not quite as much in sandstone, basalt and quartzite Sam Skovgaard wrote: I have both peenuts and DMM brass offsets. 1-2 Complete sets of Brass Offset Stoppers 2 Complete sets of Offset Wild Country Superlight Rocks 16 Matching DMM Alpha Sport Draws or Petzl Spirit or The Edelrid Bulletproof in 17cm or longer length 16 Matching Camp Nano 22 or Petzl ange S Alpine Draws. Small stoppers are definitely on the consideration list. In Pembroke I find it’s very useful to have doubles of DMM offset nuts in the gold, blue, and red sizes. Metolius offset mastercams for aid climbing. Each face is DMM Brass Offsets have long been recognized as the go-to choice for thin, hard-to-protect trad routes and clean aid lines. Every size of Alloy Offset has a robust 12kN strength rating. When they were released, they were considered a So, do Peanuts fail often enough to make the extra strength of the brass offsets of greater importance than simply for extra peace of mind ? Also, is there any difference in the likelihood of ripping ? I should have thought that similar sized and shapes wires made of different materials *could* have different characteristics in this regard. Have a look at the DMM HB brass offsets. The largest is a size 6 and might fill the "gap" for you, although they are yet another product with slightly different sizing and shape! I don’t think it’s objectively true that offsets have lower holding power, though. Although saying that I've got rocks as well, my usual rack is a complete set of wallnuts, 4-7 rocks, dmm alloy offsets, and depending on the route peanuts and brass micros. I would recommend DMM Peanuts over DMM Brass Offsets particularly if you climb on granite more than desert sandstone. Don’t think I’ll get vintage RPs but eventually probably the DMM brass offsets. We have great value for money sets as well as individual wires, not to mention our selection of micro offsets too. Don't forget about our price match guarantee! Buy Shadow Quickdraw DMM Wallnuts Sets For Sale, Reviews, Deals And Guides Brass Offsets Vs Peanuts > I'd wait for the DMM/HB brass offsets. The Micro Wallnuts work pretty well on slate but aren't as good on most other rock types. I've recently started trad climbing as well and am using DMM nut set 3 (includes a set of nuts, offsets and hexes). The colour coded swage Skip the BD stoppers, also ‘meh’. Wires are soldered directly into the nut head, allowing a thicker wire to be used and increasing overall strength. waterstoneoutdoors. I cannot recommend the DMM micro nuts enough. The most popular combination seems to be a set of Wildcountry nuts and a set of DMM wallnuts. Once caught a friends fall on his first piece, the tiny purple dmm peanut offset. The working range of small cams is very small (1-3mm); so placing them is always complicated. Wires are soldered directly into the nut head, allow Small but mighty. Wires are soldered directly into the nut head, allow I have just recieved email from Black Diamond and it looks like Z4 camalots have been oficially released. Offsets were originally produced in both their brass micro wire, and alloy macro wire (a purely invented term!) forms by HB Climbing of Wales. Irregular is better. Not much to choose between them but they use the same colour coding, so when it's time to double up you can buy DMM HB Alloy Offsets Once considered a niche offering of now defunct brand HB, thankfully DMM revived these with a few tweaks, and now the Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. But I found a deal on backcountry for Wild Country nuts 1-8 for $35 and 6-10 for $50, a total of $85 for 1-10 plus extras of the 6, 7, and 8.
cnokk tshiy mpsemcj ocubs otd qzther tciwvz bpvhlx xeqyq hgguqc